Best cycling shoes 2023 rated and reviewed

Beyond the obvious shoe size, there's a lot to think about when choosing cycling shoes. Even sizing isn't straightforward, as you want a cycling shoe to hold you foot steady to pedal efficiently, so you might need a show that's a half size down from your normal.

Carbon soles will be stiffer and increase pedalling efficiency, which is great  unless you're expecting to walk in them, when a little more give will prove useful. Likewise, they don't have and sole grip. 

You also need to make sure that you have the correct cleat holes in the sole for your intended pedal system; either two or three (or sometimes four for Speedplay cleats).

Think too about the closure system. Boa dials are efficient but expensive and  single dials may not distribute pressure as evenly as dual dial systems. Ratchets and Velcro are cheaper and can be as efficient. Laces look smart and save weight, but you can't adjust them while riding.

A highly ventilated pair of cycling shoes or shoes with woven uppers will keep your feet cooler in hot conditions, but won't be so good if it's cold and damp.

Finally there's price: how much are you prepared to spend? There's no substitute for trying before you buy.

Cycling is a forefoot sport. Whilst the foot itself doesn’t generate any power, all of the watts produced elsewhere pass through your digits. So not only do poorly fitting shoes create pain, they can also limit performance.

Former British Cycling physiotherapist and bike fitter at the eponymous Phil Burt Innovation, Phil Burt told us: “If you’re in a wrongly fitted shoe it would manifest as rubbing around the little toe, pain underneath the first and second toe where a lot of people get numbness or pins and needles.”

Touching on the performance element, he added: “The foot and ankle don’t generate any power. All the power comes from your quad and your glute. But you can lose a hell of a lot through badly fitting shoes – for example, if your foot is moving around or over pronating, you can waste a lot of energy.”

The key variables when it comes to cycling shoes are the fastening system, the sole, the cleat style, and of course the fit, although that does depend on whether you've teamed with a pair of good cycling socks.  

There are basically four different systems used to tighten cycling shoes: Velcro, ratchets, laces, and dials.

Almost all budget cycling shoes use Velcro straps for fastening, basically because it's a cheaper option. For the rider, Velcro straps do a good job of holding the shoe firmly in place but can be difficult to adjust on the move and it can also be a little tricky to get the precise fit you might want.

The other benefit of Velcro straps is that they are light. This means that they can also be found on very expensive lightweight shoes designed specifically for climbers. Over time, the Velcro can lose its effectiveness though, so that the hold on your foot can diminish.

The next step up in the fastening system food chain is ratchets, so look out for some of the great cycling shoes that offer these at a lower price point. A ratchet offers more precise adjustability than Velcro straps, gives a really secure fit, and can also easily be tightened while riding. However, loosening a ratchet is not quite as easily, often requiring two hands. Ratchets are generally found on mid-price shoes, and usually combined with a Velcro strap or two further down the shoe.

At the top of the tree you have dial closures, the fastening system used on most high-end shoes. In general, these are very secure, are easy to adjust, and can be dialled in (excuse the pun) to give a very precise hold. However, there are differences between different brands of dials. Boa dials offer the current gold standard with higher-end Boas providing incremental tightening and loosening, while those from other brands and lower spec Boas can't always be loosened quite so easily. 

The other option on a few other high-end shoes such as the Giro Empires and Specialized S-Works Sub 6 shoes (as well as a few retro-style shoes) is laces. For those interested in marginal gains, laces are very aerodynamic but are also generally very comfy as there's wider distribution of pressure across the top of the foot and the laces self-adjust to help even it out. However, of course, laces are nigh-on impossible to adjust on the move.

As with the fastening systems, there are various different types of soles that come on different cycling shoes, and of course the more you pay, the more you get.

The main thing that you are looking for with the soles of your cycling shoes is for them to be stiff. This means that when you press down the sole won't bend, meaning that all of the power that you generate is transferred through the sole and into the pedal. The second consideration is weight, with more expensive shoes coming with lighter soles.

Entry-level cycling shoes will generally come with nylon soles, but if you pay a bit more you will get shoes with carbon composite soles (i.e. a mixture of carbon and plastic), while at the top of the scale you will find carbon-soled shoes. The only thing with some really high-end shoes is that some people will find that the ultra-stiff sole may cause discomfort on longer rides, so it's worth reading some reviews before parting with your cash.

As ever, weight is also important, with top of the range carbon shoes often being much lighter than entry level models.

While you're looking at the material of the soles of your prospective new cycling shoes, it's worth looking at the type of cleats that they will accommodate, as some will take two-bolt cleats while others will take three-bolt cleats. Some, particularly lower priced models, let you fit either. Your choice really depends on what type of riding you're doing.

If you're riding off-road or want to have a pair of shoes that are easy to walk in, then go for a pedal system that uses two-bolt cleats such as Shimano SPDs or Crankbrothers Eggbeaters.

However, for road riding, you really want three-bolt cleats which will give you a wider platform for improved power transfer through the pedals. For that reason, mid and high-end shoes will only come with three bolts patterns.

Even if you're riding in warm, dry conditions, your cycling shoes are likely to get sweaty inside. Once you take them off, don't just leave them sitting in a plastic bag, but put them somewhere dry where they can air and dry out. It's a good idea to pull out your insoles too, to make sure that the inside of the sole unit dries out. Many more expensive cycling shoes will come with a net storage bag to keep them in.

If your shoes get wet, you should take out the insoles and pack the inside of the shoes with scrunched up newspaper to help soak up the moisture.

Most cycling shoes can be wiped down with a damp cloth, but don't try anything more aggressive to clean them unless the maker's care instructions advise this.

If you're regularly riding in poor conditions, a pair of the best cycling overshoes will help keep your shoes clean. Overshoes tend to wear quickly though; a dedicated pair of winter cycling shoes like the Gaerne Icestorm boots might be a better bet. They will have a fully enclosed, waterproof upper and sole, usually with a breathable membrane and insulation, to help keep your feet dry and warm.

Heel support and heel lift are often an issue with this type of winter boot though, so make sure that the fit is good if you go this route. Also consider swapping to winter boots and pedals for two bolt cleats for their better walkability in the wet or when it's icy - you're less likely to take a spill on a tile floor at the coffee stop.

When brands create cycling shoes, they will typically cater for the “average” individual in order to accommodate the largest segment of the market. However, with cycling shoes being both incredibly rigid and fixed in place via cleats and pedals, those who fall outside the norm can struggle to find shoes that fit.

Several brands do offer ‘wide fit’ options - these include Sidi, Bont, Shimano and Lake. Lake provides wide toe boxes as well as custom moulded heel cups to ensure a good fit all round for those with a wide forefoot and narrow ankle.

We’ve had one wide-footed tester - Cycling Weekly's Owen Rogers, put three pairs of the best cycling shoes for wide feet through their paces. However, former British Cycling physio Phil Burt advises that those looking to solve foot pain ensure they’re solving the correct problem before purchasing.

“You may not have wide feet. It could be that your foot is collapsing, and therefore splaying. A lot of people think they have wide feet, but given an off-the-shelf corrective insole, the problem goes away because they have the support their foot needs.”

You can buy arch supporting insoles in your local chemist, and of course there are many brands out there who will create you a custom version should you want something more bespoke.

If you're sure you do have wide feet, and not a need for an insole, then read on.

Cycling shoes, even pricey ones, often come with fairly basic flat insoles. Since your feet are held in a static position, this can cause discomfort over time. It's worth considering an insole upgrade. Some aftermarket insoles will have an adjustable level of arch support, most will be made of more substantial material than the insoles that come with your shoes and often there will be other extra features like a less flat profile and a midfoot bump to help support your feet better. You can also buy bespoke insoles made to match your feet.

There are a number of different shoes on the market such as the Bont Riot and the Lake CX402 that can be customized through heat moulding to fit the shape of your feet. This means that the shoes should perfectly support the arch of your foot, ensuring that you should be very comfortable and power transfer should be improved too as your foot won't move around at all. If you have flat feet or arch-related problems, heat mouldable shoes could be the solution.

Triathlon shoes are different from road shoes. If you fancy the idea of doing some triathlons, it might be worth getting a triathlon-specific pair.

Tri shoes are designed to be put on and off quickly while cycling and consequently use an easy to open retention system. They often feature a loop on the heel that you can grab for easier access. However, if you ride in cold weather, be aware that tri-shoes often also feature drainage holes for wet feet. If you definitely want road shoes and not triathlon shoes, be sure to check with the retailer that you're getting what you want.

The best way to check the fit of a shoe is to try it on in your local bike shop before purchasing (hopefully you'll make the purchase in the shop too!). It is better to do this in the afternoon or evening as your feet can expand slightly during the day.

Shoe sizing is pretty consistent across brands, particularly when compared to other pieces of cycling clothing – but just because your old and worn-out size 46 shoes were comfortable, it doesn't necessarily mean you can jump straight into a different brand in the same size.

Arch heights, shoe widths, and different fastening systems can all mean that you may find yourself going a size up or down when buying new cycling shoes. Flashier shoes usually come in half sizes, so you can get a good match for your feet. Lower priced shoes, however, tend to be sold in whole sizes only - they are usually more roomy to start with as well. If your feet are between sizes, that can make choosing the right size tricky. IF you're not sure, we'd suggest sizing down.